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How to avoid over-investing as a starting artist (expert advice)

Nov 20, 2023, Update: Nov 20, 2023, author: Powderbrows.com / Holistic PMU
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"Starting artists in the pigmentation business can often take on unnecessary costs. Common areas of over-investment include expensive PMU machines, a wide range of pigments, high-end photo equipment, fixed salon rent, and services from branding or digital media agencies. This article helps to avoid this and offers better alternatives based on suggestions from experienced artists."

1. Background


This article is based on insights gathered from 45 interviews conducted with PMU (Permanent Makeup) artists between 2020 and 2022. These artists, primarily specializing in the powder brows technique, are among the most successful in their regions, falling into the top 18.7% of earners. The diverse group has 29 artists from various EU countries, nine from the UK, and seven from the US.

A striking characteristic of these artists is that the vast majority, over 80%, transitioned into the powder brows and pigmentation industry from unrelated fields. This transition meant that they largely had to build their customer base and reputation from the ground up. As such, their insights are profoundly practical and rooted in real-world experience. They've navigated every initial challenge of establishing a powder brow and pigmentation career without significant external help or counseling. Their journeys, therefore, provide valuable lessons and strategies for others looking to succeed in this dynamic and growing field.

The Goal of the Article

The primary objective of this article is to guide new artists entering the powder brows and pigmentation industry. We aim to comprehensively understand the initial investments necessary to kick-start a successful career in this field. To achieve this, the article is structured in two distinct parts:

Identifying Unnecessary Investments. The first part of each section delves into the typical initial investments made by beginners that have proven to be non-essential. Despite often involving considerable expenditure, these investments have shown limited effectiveness in advancing an artist's career. By highlighting these common pitfalls, we aim to help new artists avoid unnecessary expenses and focus their resources more strategically.

Highlighting Productive and Effective Investments. The second part of each section in the article focuses on investments consistently demonstrating value. These expenditures have been crucial in propelling the careers of successful artists in the powder brows business. By examining these productive investments, we aim to provide starting artists with practical advice on where to allocate their resources for maximum impact and growth in their careers.

2. Why over-investing happens


Psychological Reasons for Over-Investing

Understanding the psychological motivations behind unnecessary initial investments is crucial for new powder brows and pigmentation artists. Broadly, these motivations can be categorized into two groups: those stemming from internal insecurities and those driven by a desire for external recognition and impact.

Internal insecurities

For many starting artists, lacking confidence in their skills and the ability to deliver flawless services to clients consistently often leads to over-investing in tools and supplies. This is done in the hope that superior equipment will compensate for perceived shortcomings in their abilities. While it's true that quality tools can aid in the procedure, they only do so to a certain extent. Unfortunately, relying excessively on such investments typically fails to enhance the end result significantly and may further deepen the artist's sense of insecurity, contrary to their initial expectation.

The desire for external significance

The other set of reasons for unnecessary investments is tied to the belief that these expenditures will differentiate them from competitors and impress potential clients. More often than not, this is a misconception. Even when an investment visibly sets an artist apart, it rarely has the intended impact of attracting new clients or boosting sales and revenue.

The Guiding Principle

A principle many experienced artists have formulated, based on their own initial mistakes, is this: a starting artist should critically assess whether an investment is merely an expense catering to their need for security, confidence, or recognition or if it genuinely contributes to increased earnings. In most cases, a significant portion of the investments made by beginners tend to satisfy only the former. Therefore, discerning an investment's actual value and return is vital for long-term success and financial stability in the field. Next, let us explore concrete examples of potential over-investing.

3. High-end PMU machines


The Misconception of Expensive Equipment

One of the most common misconceptions among starting artists is the belief that investing in an expensive, high-end PMU (Permanent Makeup) machine will significantly improve their work, impress clients, and attract more business through social media showcasing. However, research and practical experience show that these expectations are often unfounded. This belief highlights a naivety common among newcomers to the industry.

The Financial Burden

In the worst-case scenario, such a machine can cost thousands of dollars. There have been instances where new artists are advised to purchase not one but two high-end machines with different built-in stroke heights for supposedly better results. This approach can lead to even greater financial strain, especially if the machine requires specific, branded cartridges. These cartridges, while high-quality, can be five to ten times more expensive than similar products from reputable manufacturers that offer the same quality.

The Pitfall of Overemphasis on Tools

It's an important additional note that repeatedly and excessively showcasing a high-end PMU machine on social media can backfire. Instead of attracting potential clients, this approach may lead to doubt and hesitation. The core issue lies in the perception it creates: potential clients might feel that the artist is trying too hard to sell their services based on the tools they use rather than on their skillset and expertise.

Practical Advice from Seasoned Artists

Many experienced artists recall making substantial investments in their first machines, with some spending over three or four thousand dollars. Their advice is clear and straightforward: do not rush into buying an expensive machine, especially if your current bookings cannot justify the cost. If business is booming, it’s still wise to wait, save, and consider investing in a high-end machine.

An adequate first machine should possess the following features: a built-in stroke height of 3.0-3.5mm (Medium Stroke), be wireless, lightweight, compatible with all cartridge types, and known for delivering sufficient power in real-life applications, not just in theory. The cost should ideally range between USD 100-200. This approach ensures that you make a financially responsible decision without compromising on the quality and efficacy of your equipment.

4. Huge selection of pigments


Falling for Marketing Strategies

Many starting artists are swayed by the marketing tactics of pigment producers who offer extensive ranges of pigments, allegedly tailored for every skin type, age, and ethnicity. While it's understandable for producers to market their products aggressively—after all, sales are their primary goal—it's essential for artists to approach these claims with a critical eye.

The Basic Composition of Pigments

It's crucial to recognize that all pigments have the same basic colorants: black, yellow, and red. Some formulations may also include orange, but this is essentially a blend of red and yellow. The primary difference between the myriad options lies in the proportions of these colors.

The Pitfalls of Over-Purchasing and Mixing

New artists often get caught up in buying excessive amounts of pigments. Worse, they might start mixing them in complex “secret formulas” as suggested by some artists who promote these products, often due to sponsorships from producers. These mixtures, particularly when involving multiple pigment bottles, can result in undesirable grayish hues or, at best, inconsistent brownish tones that are difficult to replicate.

Common Practices and Wastage

While many new artists may not engage extensively in pigment mixing, they often use only a few colors from their extensive collection, leading to the wastage of the remaining pigments as they expire.

Advice from Experienced Artists

Seasoned artists typically suggest that all necessary colors can be created using primary pigments: one with a dominant black, one with a dominant yellow, and one with a dominant red. In many cases, especially for clients in

the US, EU, and UK, pigments need to be made warmer rather than cooler, so including an orange enhancer or modifier can be beneficial. Starting with hybrid pigments with an inorganic base is often the safest approach.

Gaining practical experience in how pigments work - how they implant in the skin, how they heal, etc.- is essential before expanding one's pigment selection. Demonstrating the skill to mix suitable combinations from base colors is more professional than relying on a vast array of pre-mixed pigments with fancy names.

5. Expensive photo equipment


The Misguided Investment in High-End Photography Gear

Many artists invest heavily in photography equipment, believing it to be the key to enhancing their portfolio quality. However, venturing into the world of photography can be an endless, costly journey with always newer, seemingly better options available. While snagging a deal on high-end photography gear can feel like a significant win, the reality often proves otherwise.

The Reality Behind the Camera

Empirical evidence and various research projects have repeatedly shown that such investments don't yield the expected benefits. The primary issue is not just the minimal technical difference in results for the typical target audience or the fact that most beginners can only utilize a fraction of a high-end camera's capabilities. The core problem is often a beginner's naivety and a lack of business acumen.

Insights from Experienced Artists

Seasoned artists emphasize that building a beautiful portfolio involves more than just excellent photos; it's a holistic process. It's about creating stunning transformations on aesthetically pleasing models and then refining the photos to perfection—eliminating errors like skin blemishes, inaccurate pixels, etc. Thus, the technical equipment plays only an instrumental role.

The Role of Professional Retouching

If the model looks fabulous and the transformation is impressive, many professionals opt for professional retouching or use applications to refine the images themselves. Interestingly, professional retouching services, known for delivering magazine-level results, are often surprisingly affordable, ranging from USD 5 to 10 per image.

The Reality of Retouching

While many artists claim they only retouch facial features and not the actual procedure results, such statements should be taken cautiously. The competitive nature of the industry and the exclusive possession of raw images by the artists themselves often lead to modifications of the brows as well.

The Formula for a Perfect Portfolio Photo

Based on the insights and experiences of seasoned artists, the formula for an ideal portfolio transformation is:

  • 30% Actual Quality of Work
  • 30% Aesthetic Beauty of the Client (Model)
  • 30% Professional Retouching Quality
  • 10% All Else, Including Photography Equipment
This formula guides against rushing to invest in expensive photo equipment. It highlights that the key to a perfect portfolio lies more in the quality of work, the beauty of the model, and professional retouching rather than solely in the photography gear used.

6. Fixed costs and salon rent


The Misguided Approach to Expensive Rentals

In their eagerness to establish themselves, many new artists hastily sign contracts for expensive salon spaces, often in prestigious city-center locations. Driven by the belief that a reputable address will automatically attract more clients, they commit to a fixed cost that becomes increasingly burdensome. This approach strains their finances and demonstrates a fundamental misunderstanding of the brow business.

The High Risks of Fixed Costs

Securing a salon space, especially one with high rental fees, can be tempting. However, such decisions, often made impulsively, can lead to more problems than success. These fixed costs continuously drain resources, which can overwhelm a starving artist.

Seasoned Artists' Strategy: Flexibility and Partnerships

Experienced artists often advise a contrary strategy. The recommendation is to start by partnering with multiple salons to maximize income opportunities. An effective approach is to create a financial incentive for salon owners to promote the artist's services, such as offering them a portion of each client's fee.

The Benefits of Short-Term Rentals and Social Media

Artists who have adopted this model avoid the burden of fixed costs and often see an increase in turnover. With the prevalence of social media as a client acquisition tool, the need for a permanent salon location is reduced. If and when clients are secured, artists can negotiate short-term rentals of workstations, often in private rooms within established salons.

Embracing Financial Flexibility

While short-term rental costs may be higher than long-term commitments, this should not be a deterrent for artists at the start of their careers. The freedom to choose locations and protect against drastic turnover fluctuations is invaluable. Most importantly, this approach ensures that each procedure conducted is profitable for the artist, a certainty not guaranteed when burdened with substantial monthly fixed rental costs.

7. Buying services from agencies


Understanding the Importance of Branding

Many new artists rightly recognize the importance of branding and differentiation as a foundation for success. However, the approach to achieving this can be critical.

The High Cost of Professional Branding Agencies

That approach applies to buying services from any company (digital media agencies, branding, web development, digital PR, etc). To make a case, we use an example of an agency dealing with branding. Hiring such an agency for branding can lead to exorbitant and potentially ongoing expenses, often disproportionate to the benefits gained. This issue arises primarily due to two reasons:

Agency Pricing Structure. Branding agencies do not typically differentiate between creating a brand for a large corporation and a new brow artist. The processes of background research, competition analysis, trademark navigation, and image building are similar, resulting in high costs irrespective of the client's size.

Lack of Industry-Specific Knowledge. Despite their confidence, most agencies may not have a deep understanding of the brow business or the specifics of powder brows. This lack of industry-specific knowledge can lead to branding that is not fully aligned with the unique demands of the brow industry.

Alternative Strategies Suggested by Experienced Artists

Seasoned artists agree on the necessity of branding and differentiation but advise against extreme expenditures in the initial stages. Many suggest starting with accessible online resources for branding, such as brandsnap.ai, and leveraging educational articles on platforms like powderbrows.com. These resources offer guidance on initial steps in branding, specifically tailored to the brow business.

The Approach to Branding as a "One Girl Army”

The consensus is to adopt a more self-reliant approach initially, doing as much as possible independently while utilizing professional tools. This strategy allows artists to assess whether their business generates income without significant financial risk. As the business grows, artists can then gradually seek out specific professionals for collaboration rather than going through an agency, which often involves higher costs and commissions.

8. Conclusions


When starting as a brow artist in the field of PMU and powder brows, one can often incur lots of unnecessary costs that eventually can contribute to failure to become successful. The psychological reasons for this are two-fold: one often seeks to compensate internal security with such investments, or alternatively (often additonally) impress existing and potential clients. Both of those are dangerous forms of rationalizing unnecessary investments. Potential cases where over-investing happens are often the following: getting the expensive machine, purchasing a wide range of pigments, buying expensive photo equipment, taking on fixed costs in the form of rent, or buying services from companies instead of doing the same oneself or partnering directly with professionals.

High-end PMU machines

Do not fall prey to the misconception that expensive, high-end PMU machines are a prerequisite for success. This belief, underlined by naivety and a lack of industry experience, can lead to unnecessary financial burdens, with costs escalating to thousands of dollars for machines that require specific, costly cartridges. Furthermore, overemphasizing these tools on social media can be counterproductive, creating doubts among potential clients about the artist's skills versus their reliance on equipment. Seasoned artists suggest a more pragmatic approach: starting with a moderately priced machine ($100-200 range) that offers essential features like a medium stroke height, wireless operation, and compatibility with various cartridges.

Wide range of pigments

It’s essential to understand that all pigments consist of basic colorants: black, yellow, and red, sometimes including orange. The temptation to buy in excess and mix these pigments into complex "secret formulas" can lead to wastage and inconsistent results, as many artists use only a few of the purchased colors. Seasoned artists advise focusing on primary pigments and gaining practical experience with how these colors work in the skin. This approach favors understanding the art of mixing basic colors over-relying on a wide array of pre-mixed options, is cost-effective, and enhances the artist's professionalism and mastery of the craft. Starting with hybrid pigments and adding modifiers like orange for warmth can provide a strong foundation for successful color application in PMU.

Expensive photo equipment

The journey into professional photography is often costly and endless, with minimal actual benefit to the artist's work. Investment in expensive gear does not significantly enhance portfolio quality, and beginners frequently underutilize the technical capabilities of such equipment. Experienced artists highlight that creating a beautiful portfolio is a holistic process involving more than just the camera used. It's about crafting stunning transformations and refining images through professional retouching, which is surprisingly affordable. Caution is advised regarding claims of not altering procedure results, as industry competitiveness often leads to retouched images. The key elements of a perfect portfolio photo, as advised by seasoned artists, include the actual quality of work, the aesthetic beauty of the model, the quality of retouching, and the photography equipment. This underscores the importance of skill and presentation over the reliance on high-end photography gear.

Fixed costs and salon rent

New artists in the PMU field often mistakenly believe that securing an expensive salon space, particularly in prestigious locations, is essential for attracting clients and establishing their business. This approach leads to burdensome fixed costs that can strain finances and does not necessarily guarantee increased client traffic. Seasoned artists recommend a strategy of flexibility and partnerships, such as collaborating with multiple salons and negotiating short-term rentals, which maximizes income opportunities without the commitment of high rental fees. This approach, bolstered by the effective use of social media for client acquisition, allows artists to maintain financial flexibility and ensures that each procedure is profitable.

Buying services from agencies

While starting artists in the PMU industry understand the importance of branding and differentiation, their approach to achieving this can be misguided, especially through buying services from companies like branding or digital media agencies. Agencies often charge high fees without differentiating between large corporations and individual artists and may lack specific knowledge about the brow business. Experienced artists recommend a prudent approach, advocating for using accessible online branding resources and educational platforms in the initial stages. They suggest adopting a "one girl army" approach, handling as much as possible independently while utilizing professional tools, which allows for business growth without substantial financial risk. Artists should consider collaborating with specific professionals only when the business is generating stable income, avoiding the high costs and commissions associated with agencies.
 
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