Mapping brows using Golden Ratio

Background This article aims to provide a basic understanding of the Golden Ratio application - in other words how to measure the brow location with the ordinary golden ratio tool.


Location center

Locating the center of the face The first step to initiating the mapping procedure is the localization of the face's center. It is noteworthy that measurements in Powder Brows do not depend on the nostrils but are instead based purely on skull structure. We initiate by pinching the skin between the brows, drawing a line representing the face's center, and confirming it with a straight tool on the nose.




Scleras distance

Measure the distance between the scleras The next step involves measuring the distance between the scleras (the white part of the eye). For this, we employ the larger 'V'-shaped part of the Golden Ratio Tool. At this stage, we only measure the width and do not draw any lines.




Beginning lines

Drawing beginning lines (1,4) Following this, we draw the beginning lines of the brows (1,4). We attach an extra handle on the center line, holding the tool horizontally straight, and draw the starting lines. We verify that the distances from the center line are equal before erasing the center line.




End lines

Locating the end-lines (3) The end-lines (3) are located by placing both index fingers on the client's temples and applying mild pressure. We locate the small dimples everyone has and mark the brow's end at the beginning of these dimples. Ensuring the width of both brows is the same is crucial at this point.




Highest point

The highest point determination Determining the highest point (2) of the brow involves placing the Golden Ratio Tool on top of the brow so that the ends touch the beginning line and end line. We ensure that the larger part of the tool is on the inside of the brow and then mark the highest point to the upper arch.




Raising checkpoint

Identifying the raising checkpoint To identify the rising checkpoint (5), we flip the tool so that the smaller part is on the inside of the brow. Marking the raising checkpoints of both brows on the lower arch and ensuring that the widths are the same is the next step. However, in current practices, many artists are eliminating this step as the lower arch is usually drawn in a straighter fashion.




Lower arch tip

Determining the highest point of the lower arch Finally, we determine the highest point of the lower arch. This is done by pinching the Golden Ratio Tool together, placing one handle at the highest point of the brow (2), and another handle at the endpoint (3) so that the smaller part of the tool is on the inside of the brow. We then mark point 6 to the lower arch.